A bit about the hatred West yet.

 This article is appointed for Russian-language public. However if Europeans (especially for the franks, germans, engs, saxons, danes) will remember that they not always were the refined Europeans, but their ancestors were frightful barbarians, goths and vandals, that by the modern position they wholly are under an obligation to the germinating in them ancient culture of ancient Rome and Greece, and similarly “Drang nach Osten” Carl Great. If they understand that, they wold wish for the alien, extrinsic to them so-called western culture.

  If to dig deeper, then it is possible to remark yet the role of world loan capital in forming of powerful demographic, technological and military pressure of western culture, especially since 14-15 centuries, when this capital finally settled in Europe. But we will not complicate, in this context the most primitive and enough sufficient ground is the "passionarity" (of Gumilev) or "competition of nations", not affecting the ambiguous themes of judaic project or divine intention.

  In addition to the articles "Why the West hate Russia" and “What are the roots of the American dream", it is reasonable to drive research of history of feed to Europe of Massimo Montanari (1949) "Hunger and abundance. History of feed is in Europe".

  Cultural values are not limited to the feed, and, if to examine the traditional values of the West, then they are rather taken to power, influence and prevailing, than to the delicious and useful feed. But, nevertheless, appears even such in general that a boring and abstract theme, as history of development of gastronomic tastes, appears, very exhaustively characterise a common idea about essence of western civilisation.

  Knowingly in antiquity about quality of worker judged on that, how he eats.

  But we will appeal to the information generator. According to researches of Montanari, all development of western civilisation was accompanied by the permanent threat of total hunger. Even the relatively small increase of quantity of population (to 18 century the quantity of population of Europe exceeded 100 million persons hardly, on modern presentations this was the desert, especially, if to compare to Japan or India) resulted in the origin of tension in this plan.

The periods of relative prosperity were accompanied by the new periods of mass dearths and plague illnesses. The most heavy periods are on a period from 11 to 14 centuries, 16 and 18 centuries. But also in relatively safe periods in separate regions hungry years happened regularly.  An author mentions that dearths quite often appeared the results of trade speculations, but it does for a moment, as about a not especially important detail.

  We will not too much develop this theme too, we will simply remember about dearths of 1930th in the USSR and USA, about modern hunger in Africa and row of other countries : principal reason them, as almost always, not at all crop failure and natural calamities.

 The evolution of feed surprising: from barbarian, mainly meat and milk food, with exceptionally adiposes (lard and dairy butter) for the 2000-year history Europeans passed to the gradual almost complete expulsing of meat on food vegetable, fish and olive oil. Thus this expulsing proved to be correct not cleanly economic considerations, but also deep philosophical and medical grounds.

  Without regard to that 18 and 19 eyelids were marked mass development of extraordinary before illnesses, like a rachitis, related to complete absence in the feed of Europeans of fats and vitamins, passing to of the little use and cheap grain-growing foods like buckwheat and corn.

 Thus even in a 20th century Europe twice stood in face of hunger, not to mention about complete inaccessibility of the valuable balanced feed. "Eggs, milks"!, - hungry Germans-winners yelled on Ukraine that in 1918, that in 1941.

 And another fact: first in the USSR "McDonald's" came in 1930th. And this appearance was not at all such triumphal, as opening of first "McDonald's" in Moscow in 1992. The people used to the completely other feed simply ignored fast "food", preferring an usual, far more refined kitchen.

 Т.е. the example of feed demonstrates evidently, to what we rolled in emulating the West, in fact really existent network of public food consumption with all her "shawarmas" meat dumplings and chebureks appears quite uncompetitive with this most notorious "McDonald's". Neither on prices, nor on benevolence of waiters nor in quality of food. Knowingly (and I including) in stranger city I prefer "McDonald's", with the forecast prices and assured quality.

 Certainly, all brought estimations over in relation to a feed it is difficult to check in such protracted period, but it is difficult to expect that Massimo Montanari had though the least motivation to present anything in a worst kind, than it was actually.

And, main conclusion: on enormous, fertile and rich territory which Europe is, the insignificant small group of people (especially by comparison to the largest ancient centres of civilisation) was not so able along with each other to get, that permanently exposed to the poorest  (and quite often and not only) population the extinction and constantly carried out demographic pressure on neighbours, carrying out quite unbelievable external expansion.

 I.e. if to go away from religious theses to the concepts of "passionarity" and "civilised manner-genetic code", then the phenomenon of west-european civilisation consists in such unbelievable unsociability and intolerance of them to each other and to all other nations, that passing ahead scientific and technical progress appeared the only method of survival and overcoming of the mutual pushing away, and poverty and permanent threat of hunger similarly related to it.

  If all other nations were fully satisfied by the current terms of existence, more or less corresponding to their idea about an abundance, rarely enough ran into the threat of hunger and extinction (thus, as a rule, as a result of contacts with Europeans), then as far as global distribution of culture of feed of the West, hunger becomes one of major international threats.

  Thus about vegetarian food that was preached by ancient Greeks and vegetarians of Newtons friends we already have to remember almost with envy: modern food in considerable part already rather product of chemical synthesis, what nature and human labour.

 So that the West is not only wicked but also simply hungry. Although, that here initially, to judge I do not undertake.

Below I bring the most interesting quotations of Massimo Montanari.

But it is necessary to confess that this paradox not once recurred in history: morally, the periods of most riches and variety of folk ration coincided - up to the last century - with demographic stagnation or even recoil, when weakening of demand stipulated large flexibility and variety of capital goods. So, do a demographic curve and curve of providing food reflect each other mirror?

Surrenders, that it so: that is why it is difficult to explain the "improvement of diet" of the phenomenon of demographic increase.

(I.е. hunger retreated only in periods of absence or recoil of demographic height)

In the middle XVIII of century an abbot Petro Kyary just brands eccentric, too refined tastes of gentlefolks : the foods used by a niello "Began to be suddenly rejected: inexpensive meat, fruit and greenery on a season. Now they want a meal extraordinary, the rarest, only, enjoying a strawberry in January, vine in April, by artichokes in September". Our abbot specifies besides, that in foods their natural taste is not appreciated: it seems even, that they undeserve to appear on a table, "while in kitchens our will not be lost character it and the names.

To change their nature, use every arboreal bark, every powders, what we were endowed after opening by America".

To change their nature - whether not with this aim are gastronomic devices entered, a form and taste mask, "thousand ingredients are entered in one dish, so, that and will not take apart, that it such"?

"Kitchen of the ancient regime, - P.Meldiny writes, - aspires to universality. Complete ignoring natural tastes. allows a ferrous hand to manage both a mestome and season". Against similar habits will rise in revolt - just at the beginning XVIII of century are the "enlightened" cooks and grocery stores, defenders, as we saw already, simple and "natural" kitchen: these revolutionary innovations not immediately will be perceived by a dominating culture.

(I.е. the strange aspiring to the not natural, but beautiful, prestige and nonperishable meal was formed as early as 18 century)

This longing generates a corresponding aesthetic ideal: to be fat beautifully, it is a sign of riches and good feed, both in general, quantitative sense (I am much) and in more private, quality (there are many fats). Especially model there is one Italian short story of XV of century to me, where a peasant, envying to the fat neighbour, gave to convince itself, what only оскопление will help to attain similar дородства, and acted properly.

Concept "fat", thus, carries in itself cleanly a positive charge; therefore and it maybe to define with his help the higher layer of Florentine bourgeoisie("fat people") in the moment of her social and political becoming. He "grew fat and beautiful, with an angelic face", - writes to Franco of Saketty about one of the personages; if to talk about woman preferences, we will listen the heroine of one comedy Goldony: "If want to become to my beloveds, you must be beautiful, fat and strong".

(I.е. Rubens was not perverting, he simply wanted to eat)

There are pointing and on other estimation: leanness and slenderness too can be dignities, and great eaters from knight's эпосов quite not necessarily thick (vice versa, their courage and force are measured by ability to spend energy, burn eaten up calories). We even read about the diets for malnutrition, made in a not order to remedy a health (about them talked already Galen in a corresponding treatise), but meaning an aesthetic aim cleanly.

But it is the marginal phenomena censurable a dominating culture: about them, for example, talked in a treatise about "imperfections and treachery of sex" of women, that published in 1617.

G. Oliver: among typical woman vices he mentions this surprizing variety of gluttony, consisting not of surplus, but in the excessive delicacy of feed, in that women expose to itself privations not for the sake of spiritual confession, but for the sake of charm of body: "When will begin them to hold apart from fat, so will begin to fast, not for the sake of glory of Divine and health heartfelt, and for the sake of that, to become thin and go back to more proportional build".

And pictures and sculptures show us, that the concept of proportional build in those times very differed from our.

(I.е. even concept of beauty, health and diet initially take in this culture basis not in their inherent worth, but exceptionally in possibility of them to sell, entice, as one of varieties of gluttony, but not norm)

Value of leanness, related to such values, as a quickness, ability to work, business internals, is offered as a new aesthetic and cultural model only in XVIII of century, and those task forces carry out a break is mainly bourgeoisie, but not only she, - that resist to the ancient regime in the name new ideologies and new political projects.

We looked after already, what provocative charge was possessed then by coffee, drink of clever and active people that matched against itself the idle and dull representatives of traditional aristocracy. There is contrasting of leanness and obesity in parallel, and not by chance "blasting" drink the doctors of that time, using галеническую classification, consider "dry" and the same draining.

When coffee replaces wine or beer, drinks are "strong" and(we would add) rich in calories, it entails destruction of the most widespread aesthetic canons. The puritan spirit of XIX of century will begin to prefer a thin, slender, enduring body - body of bourgeois that "sacrifices oneself" for the sake of production of every blessing.

(But even if leanness is arrived at not on a sale, then at least as a sign of aristocracy.)

What to the abundance of meal, then obviously, what it, done by the permanent and widespread phenomenon, puts new, difficult solvable problems before a culture, that, as we know, is marked fear before hunger; attitude toward food is still painted by this sense, but the former schizophrenia throwing between privations and squandering, by far-sighted niggardliness and reckless binges is absolutely incompatible with the new state of affairs.

Insuperable traction to the excesses, that millennial history of hunger imprinted in bodies and souls, now that an abundance entered everyday life, cruelly punishes us: in the developed countries the illnesses related to the surplus feed little by little came on changing to the ailments caused by starvations.

And until not seen form of dread (appears Americans christened her fear of obesity she sweeps aside atavistic fear before hunger, but so imperiously manages psychology of man, even in the damage of objectivity: researches show that more than half those, who sits down on a diet for the sake of malnutrition, actually does not have an ovenweight. One excess was replaced by other; warm, cardiac and at the same time of conscious attitude toward a meal nobody thought of yet. An abundance will help us herein, allowing to judge more impartiality, than in the past.

(In any way to see in food just as a food a western culture appeared unable. And neither hunger nor abundance this illness does not treat. Though Massimo Montanari and believes sincerely, that the West would have pig outed some time.)